Suez Crossing

The Clio edges into the canal for a 120 mile passage to the Mediterranean. We enjoy beautiful views of Egypt to port and the Sinai to starboard. On occasion, we see the leavings of armies, portable tank bridges of both the vehicle borne and pontoon type and abandoned military strong points. The Canal -like so many of man’s works- is stained with blood. The blood of forced laborers and many soldiers from many countries was shed here. All canals are monuments to trade that ease the passage of goods to waiting markets and in a ten year period ( 1859-1869) many labored mightily to make the canal a reality and an economic engine.

Americans are not generally aware of the fact that the iconic statue in New York harbor was intended for the Suez Canal. A.F. Bartholdi, the sculptor who made the final statue on Eiffel’s substructure made numerous appeals to the French construction team to place the statue at the canal’s mouth. Bartholdi saw the statue as a modern Colossus of Rhodes, using a torch to light the way between the seas. Fortunately, the French demurred and the Statue of Liberty became an American icon.

We enter a conga line of shipping and proceed at compound slow through the waterway. We see a new container terminal on a side channel. Built in 2016 this facility is designed to allow for loading and off-loading of cargos on Egyptian soil. Before long we enter a wide body of water-the Great Bitter Lake- and all the ships hold their courses. It is estimated that eight percent of all the world’s commerce transits the Suez Canal and the crowd of ships certainly suggest such volume.

Another highlight was passed under. The Suez Canal Bridge built in 2001 actually is a connection between Africa and Asia. Few bridges connect continents and all the passengers are on deck with cameras clicking. Others are snapping the railway line that is visible on the West Bank. The need for canal in the area is clear and the Egyptians, Persians , Romans and the Greeks are among the nations that attempted the engineering feat. Today all the modern facilities and the ease of passage belie the fact that it took centuries to realize this economic dream.

Finally we nose into Port Said for a final paperwork check before entering the Mediterranean. In the Med any hope of “fair winds and following seas” are immediately dashed. The sea is roiling and an epic lightning storm is underway. The voice on the ships loudspeaker advises minimal movement and gives directions to the ship’s store of Meclizine for those prone to seasickness. The Mediterranean never fails to surprise mariners.

Our destination is Haifa in Israel, a landing that will complete the circle from Israel through Jordan and Egypt.

On such a full sea are we now afloat.


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